Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador. If you're stopping here on your way to the Galapagos Islands, you'll get to know the downtown areas of this city.

Easily visited are two areas have been gussied up for tourists: El Malecón, the reconstruction project of the Simóm Bolívar Pier, and the Barrio las Peñas, where restored colonial houses cover a hillside in the northeastern part of the city.

The walk along El Malecón is a pleasant one. City workers sweep, water, and provide security along the waterfront walk, which features an area of botanical gardens, several restaurants and yacht clubs, and the inevitable McDonalds. Please tell me you'll not go there, but enjoy the inexpensive and delicious food of Ecuador for the short time you're here.

At the northeast corner of the city, at the end of your walk along El Malecón, you'll come to the rather steep hillside of Santa Ana, where the Barrio las Peñas is located. The walk up the hill takes you by several small cafes, and you might need the refreshment if you go to the top on a hot, humid day. The pathway is carefully guarded by well-armed militia, although you'll wonder why, if they're making it so safe, they need flack jackets, but maybe it's just me.

Downtown can look quite run-down when the shops are closed (as they were when we visited on Good Friday) but things get to looking better when they're open. You'll find pleasant plazas in front of the Cathedral and the San Francisco Church.

The Anthropology museum is free, and you'll find select artifacts from all periods of occupation of the Ecuadorian coast. Recommended for a half hour overview of coastal Ecuadorian culture.

There are many places which offer Internet access, some don't even charge you for a short email check.

We stayed at the Best Western Doral for about $60 a night including taxes. This hotel is considered one of the best "bargains" in town, and is the cheapest chain by far. Although they advertise email access, they don't have it. But the breakfast is free and the place is air conditioned, albeit using separate and noisy window units.

Here's a hint for Lookie-Lous: If you're strolling, you can pretty much tell the relative cost of a hotel by the armaments of the security guards. For example, we couldn't afford any hotel where the weapon was automatic and the guard wore camouflaged gear. I still saw them though; jungle camouflage doesn't work all that well in the concrete jungle of downtown Guayaquil. Still, I think someone could make a bundle by offering uniforms that make you look like a crumbling cement column.